Natarajar (Siva) Temple, Chidambaram

Have you seen this image? I am sure you did, this is the famous celestial dancing posture  "Ananda Thandava" of lord Siva having its roots in Natarajar Temple of Chidambaram. Temple is one of the panchbootha sthalam (five elements location) of lord Siva representing "Akasha" (Sky) manifestation. 

Others Being 

1. Ekambareswarar temple at Kanchipuram, where the Lord is worshiped in his manifestation as Earth 
2. The Jambukeswarar temple at Thiruvanaikaval, in Tiruchirapalli, where the Lord is worshipped in his manifestation as Water
3. The Annamalaiyar Temple at Tiruvannamalai, where the Lord is worshiped in his manifestation as Fire 
4. The Kalahasti temple at Srikalahasthi, where the Lord is worshiped in his manifestation as air/wind.

It was an unplanned trip to Trichy via Cuddlore-Chidambaram & Karaikal. and it was my long wish to visit Ranganathar Swamy temple, Srirangam. This time all plan fell in right place and I got a chance to visit not one, two but three most revered temples of south in the following sequence

1. Natrajar Temple, Chidambaram
2. Thirukadaiyur, Nagapattinum
3. Ranaganathur Swamy, Srirangam, Trichy

This is the only place where Siva is worshiped in the form other than Lingam, though the swyambhu image found here is Lingam, rest of the image(Idols) are consecrated by erstwhile Raja's. Another uniqueness of this temple is, it houses Perumal(Lord Vishnu) Idol in his reclining repose as well, which make this temple at most reverence for both Vaishnavit and Saviat followers. Interestingly the tamil word "Kovil" (temple) for Siva refers to this temple and for Lord Vishnu it's Srirangam.

Temple History (some excerpts from web)

 "The story of Chidambaram begins with the legend of Lord Shiva strolling into the Thillai Vanam (Vanam meaning forest and thillai trees - botanical name Exocoeria agallocha, a species of mangrove trees - which currently grows in the Pichavaram wetlands near Chidambaram. The temple sculptures depicting the Thillai trees date back to the 2nd century CE). In the Thillai forests resided a group of saints or 'rishis' who believed in the supremacy of magic and that God can be controlled by rituals and 'mantras' or magical words. The Lord strolls in the forest with resplendent beauty and brilliance, assuming the form of 'Pitchatanadar', a simple mendicant seeking alms. He is followed by his Grace and consort who is Lord Vishnu as Mohini. The rishis and their wives are enchanted by the brilliance and the beauty of the handsome mendicant and his consort.On seeing their womenfolk enchanted, the rishis get enraged and invoke scores of 'serpents' (Sanskrit: Nāga) by performing magical rituals. The Lord as the mendicant lifts the serpents and dons them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist. Further enraged, the rishis invoke a fierce tiger, which the Lord skins and dons as a shawl around his waist.Thoroughly frustrated, the rishis gather all their spiritual strength and invoke a powerful demon Muyalakan - a symbol of complete arrogance and ignorance. The Lord wearing a gentle smile, steps on the demon's back, immobilizes him and performs the Ánanda Thaandava (the dance of eternal bliss) and discloses his true form. The rishis surrender, realizing that this Lord is the truth and he is beyond magic and rituals."

          Chidambaram was our first halt, the temple lies just off the Chinnai-Nagapattinum  highway (you need to skip the bypass and continue inside the city).

   This is the main entrance   (left) and its not un-usaual to see pawnshops alongside the road. You across this gopuram to enter big open area with main shrine at the center.  You cross the next entrance (right) to reach main Shrine. 

Chidambaram Rahasiyam

The sanctum-sanctorum houses three images (basically two, one is formless), the main Natrajar Idol, Shiv Lingam and a formless image (covered by dark curtain, opened for few seconds every after aarti for devotees to see), refer the below image from web

 Image on left is what we have in Sanctum-Sanctorum, center gold plated idol is of Lord Siva in the form of Natrajar (in celestial dancing posture, its not a complete Natrajar posture as seen in the first pic top), on his left is his consort (Paravathi-Sivakami Amman) and on his right (i.e. extreme left in the image) is the formless form of Lord Siva, since you can't see any formless image so it has the hanging golden Bilva leaves to give a visual look to devotees and reminding them the the presence of God in the space and it's permeates everywhere, this portion is covered by curtain and is opened to be viewed only for few seconds every after the aarti of main Idol (center one). Devotees wont be having a full view of this formless image directly but through the net like door having 108 square openings in it. This number 108 has some philosophical meanings which I will disclose shortly.

This Sanctum-Sanctorum and the Shrine is build on raised surface with flight of five steps  (This 5 also has some philosophical meaning), this sbhai is called "Chit Sabhai". One need to pay Rs 100 per person(this includes pooja materials) to step up-stairs to have a close darshan of Natrajar and the formless image and yes men have to be topless before stepping up. There are several priest who will assist you for darshan, the mods-oprundi is, you will pay the darshan fee to one of the priest, he will take the aarti materials to the main priest inside the sanctum-sanctorum, who after the aarti will return it back to your priest. As main priest perform the aarti to the main idol (Natrajar) then he shows the aarti to the formless form for few seconds, this is viewed by devotees through the net like door (with 108 square openings in it). It was Saturday and i didn't found any rush in there. Also they have the provision to courier the vibhuti on monthly basis to your home for which they would charge some amount (though I didn't opted it). I deliberately listened to what the priest explained but alas my Tamil and his version of Brahminical Tamil didn't matched and it went over my head :-(

Main Shrine Architecture

Above pic is the gold plated gopuram of Sanctum-Sanctorum shot from the back side. Some philosophical facts as stated by one of the priest there.

1. Central Shrine symbolizes the human heart
2. The 5 steps which reaches the podium of Sanctum-Sanctorum symbolizes syllables – "SI VA YA NA MA"
3. Golden roof made up of 21600 golden tiles inscribed with "SIVAYANAMA" symbolizes number of breaths
4. 72000 golden nails used to pin the tiles represents number of naadis human body contains.
5. 9 sacred Kalasam on the top symbolizes 9 forms of energy (or nav graha as some calls it).

Some pics around this Shrine.

 

Vishnu Shabai -Govindraja (Shrine) 

As stated earlier one of the uniqueness of this temple is it houses Shrine of Lord Vishnu in reclining repose. This is one among the 108 Diya Deysams and is just in front of the Natrajar shrine on his right i.e if you are facing Natrajar then Vishnu's Shrine will be on your left, this Shrine is the extension of the main Siva's shrine in inverted L shape and thus one can see both the Idols. It is said that Lord Vishnu watch Lord Siva's celestial dance and thus facing this way. 

You walk opposite to Natrajar Shrine, and will reach the Kodi Maram or Dhwaja Stambh in the outer hall, adjacent to which is Nitya Sbhai, a very place where Lord Siva competed with Goddess Kali to establish his dance supremacy, its here where Siva wear earrings using his feet. Such as the remarkable feat which concludes his victory. There is a shrine opposite to Dhwaja Stambh to commemorate his victory, Idol there depicts the posture of Siva with one leg above his head. 


Some more pics

Kodi Maram or Dhwaja Stambh

Nitya Sbhai Kovil

Hall left to Dhwaja Stambh

Entering Central Shrine

Some outside pics

Non Functioning Temple

Water tank, non-functioning

water tank beyond this wall

Side view of non-functional temple

Temple Car

I must say this is an exemplary work of art and so intricate that it will make you glued to it. It seems this is recently polished.

Panoramic view

You can take your camera inside, take pics of the outer area of central shrine but not inside, though I secretly shot some

 

We offered our prayer, got a glimpse of formless form of Lord Siva and then moved to our next destination i.e. Thirukadayur.

Vallakottai Murugan Temple

Not very far from Chennai, lies an old Murugan temple which houses the tallest statue(6 ft) of lord Murugan in Tamil Nadu, and is said to be 1200 yrs old. Situated 14km from Chennai in Kanchipuram district just off the state high way SH 57 (Sriperumbadur-Thirvallur) towards Sriperumbadhur.

Legend 

           
                 There lived a king name "Bhagirada" in this region, once upon a time Sri Narada paid a visit to this king ,only to get humiliated by him, which enraged Narada who in turn cursed him. While returning, Narada was greeted by a demon called Koran, who sought the blessing of Narada , he in turn asked the demon to defeat the king in retaliation as a result king was defeated and banished from his kingdom. Repented by his act he sought forgiveness and advice from Narada to gain his prosperity back. Narad directed him to saint Dhurvasa who adviced him to do fasting on fridays and worship Lord Muruga to appease him. His worship paid off, later the king got his kingdom back by defeating the demon. It is believed that this temple was built by the king.

                 Its the Sanctum-Sanctorum which is 1200 years old built by the usual way of interlacing several monolithic mountain stones, its rather plain stones then the having intricate carvings. Later additional structures were built like surrounding walls and small shrines on each corner of the temple.

                The temple is well fortified by around 10 ft wall. A big temple water tank beautifies the front portion outside the premises which once is known for its divinity now stands desolated to be used by village peoples for washing clothes. Temple is run by the trust, despite that this hasn't received enough patronage which it is entitled to. There is no specific parking areas apart from the open surrounding for which they do charge Rs 10.

Few pics

   

 

 



 
















Excursion

Rajiv Ghandhi Memorial park, is just 9km further towards Sriperumbudur just off the NH 4 Highway, a must visit for to pay homage.

MelMaruvathur (Om Shakti)

This very place is known for  "Adi Parasakthi" temple situated just off the national Chennai - Trichy NH 45 High way. It is believed that in this place 21 saints both men and women had their Jeeva-Samadhis (meaning, where the Siddhars/Saint left their human forms behind, while they are still alive as holy spirits).

The main deity is Goddess Amman in a sitting posture expressing obeisance to the Swayambu Lingam (Self manifested Lingam). The Lingam is said to be found under the Neem tree which got uprooted during the 1966 cyclone. Devi Amman is said have done pooja's to this Lingam. The Sanctum Sactorium houses this Lingam with the Amman Idol. 

"Ore Thai, Ore Kulum" (One Mother, one Humanity)  is what the tenet of this temple and is being practiced among the devotees. The devotees are permitted to enter into the garbha griha (inner chamber) & pray to the Goddess though we just entered around 1 pm (closing time) we weren't allowed for the same.

The uniqueness of this temple is it's administered by Shri Arul Thiru Bangaru Adigalar (see the poster on my back in above pic) who as per devotees is believed to be a personification of the Devi Amman herself and is addressed as AMMA (mother) only. Devi Amman is said to transmigrate into Arulthiru Bangaru Adigala body to spell oracle time to time. Thousands of devotees have witnessed this miracle. Amma lives on the back side of the temple.They takes Rs 1000 to witness the Amman Oracle through Sri Adigalar, in that AMMA will call only the few to solve their problem's through Oracle. There are certain days in a week where this rituals is performed, i didn't bothered to hear the Oracle as i believe if its destined to happen then i can't change and if i can't change it is better not to know  it beforehand, bottom line i just wanted to save my thousand bucks.

AMMA once in Her oracle said,

" Do not try to analyse me and my ways. They are beyond your intellectual power".

AMMA wants to set an example to the world showing even grahast man (family man) can practice spritualism. 3rd March was the 71st birthday of AMMA.

Photography is not allowed inside the temple and I didn't bothered to sneak in through my mobile phone either (though you can carry mobile in, but not allowed to shoot). Free lunch are provided here. Talking about amenities, there isn't much here as an option. An decent hotel "High way Inn" is situated few km away from here where you can have a vegetarian south indian food.

How to reach here

Well its just 92 km from Chennai and is just off the NH45 highway  and falls 25km before the Tindivanam. It's a straight single road from Chennai and is well connected through train and buses. Local shops are piled up just outside the temple but not enough hotels or restaurant as i expected, and don't have the covered parking as well.

More about the temple

http://www.sakthipeedam.org/dpisakthipeetam.html

Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu

"City of 1000 temples", "Golden City of Temples". Kanchipuram has many names to its credit and is one of the oldest city in South India. It underwent many name changes, in ancient times it was called Kachi, Kachiampathi and Kanjivaram in different periods. This city of temple is ruled by many dynasty from Pallavas, Cholas, Vijaynagara & Mughals to British. Few temples are incarnated during Pallavas dynasty (3th-9th centuries) period and later  extended or added during Cholas & VIjayanagara Dynasty. The city is revered as one of the seven sacred city in India and is in 2nd place next to Varanasi. The remains of Budhist stupas reminiscence the presence of Buddhism religion at that time. Jainism is also prevalent here. The majority of spoken language here is Tamil and Telugu. You might know the art of Shoulin Temple is preached by an Indian Buddhist Monk, the same monk was hailed from this city only. 
Its 75km from Chennai and is well connected by Buses and Train. Regular buses ply from Chennai as well as local train


Kamakshi Amman Temple

The presiding deity of this city is Goddess Kamakshi (Incarnation of Paravathi) & is one of the triad temple of Maa Shakti, the other being Madhurai Meenakshi & Kasi Visalakshi. The temple is situated in the heart of city and is surround by many other ancient temples near by. Its noteworthy that this famous temple is not the original temple of Kamakshi. The acutal one is near to this and is called Adi Peeta Parameswari, though I missed to visit this. Its also noteworthy that the present temple was once a Jain Tara temple until 12th century after which it was gradually converted to Shakti temple. 

The famous Sri Chakara which is installed in this temple is not the actual one installed by Adi Shankaracharya (Great Hindu Saint and disciple of Goddess Shakti) but in the original temple i.e. Adi Peeta Prameswari. There are few inscription which clearly shows that this was once a Jain temple. There isn't any entrance fee and camera can be carried inside the temple but not allowed to take snap of the sanctum. The deity is in sitting posture and can be seen within 7-8 feet distance. Since we went on Sunday so didn't faced any major rush. The gopuram of sanctum sanctorum is gold plated. The whole temple is fortified with stone wall. Each side has a gate having a temple like structure built as a gate way (common in almost all South Indian temples). 
In the pic below the guru (third from the left) is believed to have attained Shakti's  (Amman) divine darshan and he himself had talked to her. The pond is on the back side of the temple a common for all temples, not maintained at all and looks like it gets its share of fresh water only through rains. Saw one old elephant in the entrance gate beautifully marked on his forehead and standing helplessly. I suggest its better to feed fruits etc then to give money, by giving fruits at least you know that you fed. 

Varadaraja Perumal Temple

After visiting Kamakshi Temple we headed for Vishnu temple which is in the other end of the city, area which is commonly called as Chinna Kanchi (little Kanchi) where most of the Vishnu temples are erected and other side where Shiva temples are is called Shiva Kanchipuram. The very importance of this temple is that it is one of the 108 Divya Desams. There are 108 Vishnu temples which are considered as Divya Desam's, 105 are in India, 1 in Nepal and 2 is not on this earth. 

There are total 18 Divya desams in Kanchi itself and all are very ancient built at the time of 9th-13th century during Pallava Dynasty. There are three Idols incarnated here, Life size idol of Lord Vishnu is in the upper portion of the main temple where ground level is occupied by Lord Narismha and on to the right resides Goddess Tyaar (incarnation of Goddess Laxmi). It is few km far from Kamakshi temple at the end of the city. Currently the Temple Gopuram is undergoing some structural reforms or cleaning. This is said to be the biggest in area in Kanchipuram. 

Few architecture like 100 pillar (actual 96) mandapum is built during Vijayanager Dynasty. Each pillar is exquisitely sculpted depicting the pillars in various forms mainly a horse rider with each sculpture differing with other. Now housed as a ticket counter.

The burning heat has stopped me shooting the pillars in close that to with bare foot. It was an extremely hot weather and to walk bare foot from the gate to the temple sanctum was a bit burning attempt. The temple authoritative should have at least laid out some shed upto the main door instead they just put series of rubber pathway on one side. They charge Rs 5 for still camera. This meticulously sculpted stones can be very well compared with the one found in warangal fort (I yet to find sculptures which is more aesthetic this these ones) but sure it is worth seeing.

This temple also host Anna Daanum (free lunch just near the entrance gate) but then its only applicable for devotees who visits this temple. Beggars of the city were not allowed to enter the premises. This raises one question which I even asked the security gaurd i.e. "Whats the use of giving free lunch to those who themselves are capable to buy out?" obviously he can't answer this and I didn't donated anything towards the free "Anna Daanum" (they have Hundi's at few places for collecting money towards this free lunch).They charge entrance fee of Rs 5 if you visit temple between 12-12:30 pm, rest of the time its free. The prasadam are available just opposite to the 100 pillar structure, not free though. 

Ekambaranatha Shiva Temple:

This is Shiva temple and is situated near Kamakshi Amman temple. This is the very place where Goddess Paravathi worshipped/performed tapas to marry Lord Shiva. During her tapas she built a Shiva Lingum out of sand which is still there in the temple sanctum covered by metal/or glass shield (the same way we have in Rameswaram). On the back side of the sanctum sanctorum is the Mango tree under which Goddess Paravathi has performed her penance. This mango tree is believed to produce 4 different taste of mango out of its four different branches and is said to be 3500 years old (the old one which died already 3-4 years back). The temple was built by Pallavas and later contributed by Chola Dynasty. Sanctum is not big and has special darshan provision for Rs 5 (its nothing special, general public enters through left side door and this by front door in general both will be standing facing each other, temple authoritative are just making money out of this). The Lingam (shield) can be clearly seen even from the entrance far outside where Nandi Idol is erected (if its not that much rush).

Another noteworthy fact of this temple is it has 1008 Shiva Lingam built along the inner wall of the temple. Not all in same shape & size. There are four Idols in each corner of the temple (inside just outside the sanctum sanctorum) Ganesha, Vishu & Shiva (i forget the fourth one). The Shiva Idol (Lingum) in one corner has a special feature i.e. it is the biggest Lingam in the Kanchipuram (well it is much smaller then what you will see in Warangal) but what set this apart is it has 1000 small miniature Lingam engraved on the main Lingam and also believed that Sri Rama has worshiped here. (There are total 3 places where Lord Rama offered worship to Lord Shiva) 1. Rameshwaram 2. Kanchipuram 3. Kaasi. True or not but the Lingam appearance is breathtaking as i haven't seen such structure any where.

The exteriors surrounding sanctum is quit intricate and looks like almost new as seen in the pic its only these exteriors which are meticulously carved rest of the outer temple structures are rather plain. There are quit long corridors supported by pillars on both side and series of Lingam running along the wall.

Some more pics

First pic above on second row shows the series of Shiv Linga (hand held shot so not that clear), 2nd row on the same pic is Idol of Shiva and Parvathi (doesn't look like ancient one as is metal sculpted). There was a 1000 rudraksh planted just above the deity head on some metal plate which was donated by Nepal Raja. 3rd pic on the same row shows the Mango tree (the new one) the very place where Goddess Paravathi is said to have worshiped Shiva and the tree was 3500 years old (as said earlier the original tree already died few years back, this one is new but the hoarding stating 3500 years old still stays there). One peculiar thing about this temple is that they wont accept donations which we usually offer to deity or priest, they says we will offer puja if only you want to and pay for that puja only (this means you can't pay 1 or 2 rupee coin). One more thing i liked about this temple is the metal door of the sanctum, it has a diya like structure engraved throughout the door one just needs to place their diya or pour oil and put a thread to lit. Once if all lit up would surely look marvelous. Some hand held shots below

All the temples are closed between 12 - 4pm daily. And surely need more then one day if you wanted to cover other temples (remember it has around 1000 temples).What I have stated here is just a tip of an ice burg as this city holds many many more historical facts and events. Every Vishnu followers aspire to cover all the 108 Divya Desams in his life time 106 in this life and 2 after life (in heaven). I just visited 2 of them (Tirupathi and this one). Its the hot weather which dithered me to cover rest of the 17 temples (there are 18 Divya Desam in Kanchi alone) but then I am still alive so will try to cover them in future.

Apart from temple Kanchi is famous for one more thing, the same which Mysore is famous for yes it is Silk Sarees. It's a hub of hand woven silk sarees in Tamil Nadu which may range from few thousands to lakhs in cost. During our 12-4pm break we visited one store in Gandhi Rd called Pachayappan (one thing I liked about this store is the price is fixed, I usually hate bargaining as I am weak on that). The owner also runs school and college by the same name.

On the end note, below is the pic of Ganesha (I know you know this) in standing position on the front wall of Kamakshi Temple. Well you might have guessed by now the standing position and the scary eyes holds an important significance i.e. Drishti to sway away any evil entry to the temple. This particular posture is never used inside any house or temple but on the entry gate

More pics in Flickr Click here